Ep 28: Stanley & Zulazfar - The Pressure on IFSC Judges

That's Not Real Climbing

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.

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Guest links:

Stanley’s Instagram

Zul’s Instagram

Reference links:

Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023

Appeal Form

Stickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023

Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics

7:31 - Their IFSC Roles

12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?

20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge

23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level

26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches

31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City

38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE

49:19 - The appeals process

53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches

1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards

1:14:06 - Fixing the weather

1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony

1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?

1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories

1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC

1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them

1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations?

1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul