最高の Climbing History ポッドキャスト (2024)

1
BONUS | Remus Knowles on the Climbers and Ascents We Missed in Season 1 34:51

3M ago34:51

34:51

Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points. Become a Patron and g…

1
BONUS | Matt Samet on Climbing Mags from the 90s to Now 24:26

3M ago24:26

24:26

Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this. In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of prin…

1
Climbing in the 90s: Cultural Shifts and Lessons Learned from Season One 31:30

5M ago31:30

31:30

Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of. In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner,…

1
Eva Lopez on Women in Sports, Rivalries, and What Josune Means to Climbing History 57:56

7M ago57:56

57:56

Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for climbing, she’s also a crusher. She was the 5th woman to to climb 8c and in 2013, at 42 years old, climbed her first 8c+, a route she bolted called Potemkin. In this episode, Eva and Kris discuss the state o…

1
Josune Bereziartu Goes Honky Tonkin' 33:52

7M ago33:52

33:52

Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu first tied in as the 80’s were changing into the 90’s, after seeing a documentary showing two women climbing in the Verdon. Within those first few months of Josune learning to climb, Lynn Hill did the first 14a ever climbed by a woman. By the middle of the 90’s Josune became the 5th woman to equal the feat, which …

1
Chris Schulte on the Magic of Fontainebleau, Climbing Lifelist Boulders and Catherine Miquel 1:15:37

7M ago1:15:37

1:15:37

Chris Schulte is a boulderer who is obsessed with the lines and shapes of climbing. He fell in love with Fontainebleau many years ago based on a photo of Fred Nicole climbing Karma and has cultivated a relationship with the forest and climbed many life-list boulders there. In this episode, Kris asks Chris to describe the forest in his poetic way, a…

1
Catherine Miquel Wins the Duel 31:15

8M ago31:15

31:15

Throughout the 90s, Catherine Miquel was the undisputed queen of bouldering. Surprised you haven’t heard her name? I was too, but we aren’t alone. Not many of the people I’ve talked to know of her or her incredible resume. Climbing in Fontainebleau, she entered the decade as the only woman to climb V8, and then it was off to the races. Again and ag…

1
Josie McKee on Curiosity and the Mindset of Climbing Freerider 2:09:45

8M ago2:09:45

2:09:45

Josie McKee is a climbing guide, former YOSAR member, all-around big wall super badass and a climbing coach through her company Mind Athlete. She’s climbed El Cap over 20 times, set several speed records, has free climbed damn near every Valley classic, and her Yosemite resume rivals just about anyone’s. In this episode, Josie walks Kris through ea…

1
Chris Kalous on Freerider, Big Wall Climbing Rules, and How the Hubers Shifted History 1:12:24

8M ago1:12:24

1:12:24

If you were following Chris Kalous and The Enormocast in the early days, then you are well aware that he’s climbed Freerider. And if you follow his new show, The Runout, you know how interested he is in the history of one specific pitch of The Free Salathe - Pitch 19 - the pitch that Alex Huber subverted by climbing the Monster Offwidth, thus layin…

1
Alex Huber Rides Free 50:40

8M ago50:40

50:40

In 1998, Alex and Thomas Huber climbed the first ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in just over 15 hours. Their climb ushered in a new era of big wall free climbing, and there’s no question it was a hugely important moment in climbing history. But the way we credit it, most often simply to Alex Huber, ignores the rich history of the route. The Hube…

1
How to Climb Cowboy Direct: Jordan Cannon on The Struggle Climbing Show 1:44:31

8M ago1:44:31

1:44:31

Today, we're featuring a great conversation between our friend Ryan Devlin, host and creator of the Struggle Climbing Show and member of the Plug Tone Collective, and Jordan Cannon. In this bonus episode, Jordan takes us on the unbelievable adventure of tackling one of the toughest high-altitude big wall ascents in the world, the Cowboy Direct rout…

1
Mike Lilygren on Todd Skinner, Leadership, and Climbing Trango Tower 1:01:14

9M ago1:01:14

1:01:14

In his book, Beyond the Summit, Todd Skinner wrote, “Mike Lilygren had a schoolboy face and Dennis the Menace hair, an irritatingly endless sense of humor, and a tinkerer’s mind for detail. He would turn into “the closer” on the expedition, the one who kept getting stronger as the burden increased, the keystone that bridged the way to the summit.” …

1
Jordan Cannon on Cowboy Direct, Climbing History and the Importance of Storytelling 1:22:12

9M ago1:22:12

1:22:12

In 2023, Yosemite big wall free climbing ace Jordan Cannon joined Matt Segal and Jesse Huey on a trip to Pakistan to test their mettle against Trango Tower. Specifically, they were looking at the unrepeated Cowboy Direct, established in 1995 by Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Bobby Model and Jeff Bechtel. In this episode, Kris and Jordan discuss the a…

1
The Cirque of the Unclimbables 24:15

9M ago24:15

24:15

Calling something "unclimable," will lead any self respecting climber to wonder whether that statement is accurate. In the 1800's, half dome was deemed unclimbable...and these days more than 50,000 people make it to the summit every year. Words are powerful. Put in front of the right audience, they get people to find ways to achieve the impossible.…

1
Todd Skinner and Team Cowboy Up 51:13

9M ago51:13

51:13

In 1995, Todd Skinner began assembling a team for an audacious ascent in the Himalayan Karakoram. He’d been shown photos of a golden, rocket-ship-shaped tower that looked like it could be sitting in Yosemite, except it sat at 19,000 feet and was surrounded by some of the greatest mountains on earth. But he didn’t gather a team of experienced alpini…

1
Jonathan Siegrist on the Difficulty of Grading and Climbing for the Challenge 1:13:26

9M ago1:13:26

1:13:26

Jonathan Siegrist isn’t just one of America’s best and most prolific sport climbers, having climbed over 25 5.15’s. He’s also someone who thinks deeply about what climbing offers us, and works to make sure we stay on track. In this episode, Kris and Jonathan discuss one of the most controversial topics in climbing, grades. How grades come about, wh…

1
Seb Bouin on Akira, Grading DNA and French Climbing History 43:29

9M ago43:29

43:29

Seb Bouin is one of only three climbers who have climbed 5.15d (9c). Following in the footsteps of leading French climbers, he established his testpiece, DNA, in 2023 in the Verdon Gorge. It may not be a coincidence that this came shortly after his Vintage Rock Tour, in which he climbed all of the firsts in France from 7c+ to 9a+, including the fir…

1
Fred Rouhling, Akira and the Biggest Climbing Controversy of the 1990s 49:04

9M ago49:04

49:04

Fred Rouhling was a good climber, but 5.15b? At a time when 14d was the hardest grade, Fred suggested that his half boulder/half route hybrid, Akira, was much harder than any other climb on the planet. Not many people believed the quiet, usually reserved French climber. Many of the top pros at the time; Ben Moon, Jibe Tribout and Alex Huber, would …

1
BONUS: Nina Caprez on Attempting to Climb The Nose with Lynn Hill 9:08

9M ago9:08

9:08

Nina Caprez is a weapon. Known as the ‘Swiss Machine’, and easily one of the most accomplished big wall free climbers on the planet, she had her eyes on freeing The Nose, and she had partnered up with none other than Lynn Hill. What could possibly stand in her way? The same thing that nearly stopped Lynn. Changing Corners. In this episode, Kris and…

1
Lauren Delaunay Miller on Lynn Hill and The History of Women Climbing in Yosemite 59:11

10M ago59:11

59:11

Lauren Delaunay Miller is a climber, former YOSAR member, and award winning author of Valley of Giants: Stories from Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing. From her first moments in Yosemite Valley, hearing the stories of the inspiring women who not only climbed hard things but built the community, she knew that a book was necessary. She just did…

1
Chelsea Griffie on Leading the Way and Being the First Black Woman to Climb El Cap 33:03

10M ago33:03

33:03

In 2001, Chelsea Griffie topped out on Lurking Fear on the far left side of El Capitan and became the first black woman to climb the world famous formation. But she didn’t realize that until years later. She was just looking for things to challenge her. In this episode, Kris and Chelsea discuss the path of her climbing that led to El Cap, what bein…

1
Bobbi Bensman on Lynn Hill and 1990s Competition Climbing 36:51

10M ago36:51

36:51

Bobbi Bensman was one of the most dominant competition climbers of the 1990s, winning the Phoenix Bouldering Contest 13 years in a row and 20 National Championships. She’s still going strong, adding every year to a 5.13 ticklist that’s now over 250 routes long. In this episode, Kris and Bobbi discuss her years as a competition climber, her greatest…

1
Lynn Hill Proves It Goes 39:58

10M ago39:58

39:58

Lynn Hill was looking for a different kind of progression. By the mid-1990’s climbing grades had skyrocketed, and Lynn was climbing harder and harder. But the difficulty wasn’t what drove her. She wanted adventure. Partnership. To push into the unknown. Something BIG. And there was one prize that had been talked about for decades with the air of a …

1
10 Incredible "Women of Firsts" in Climbing 32:53

10M ago32:53

32:53

It's fair to say that for the majority of the history of rock climbing, men have hogged the spotlight. Climbing has a particular "macho" bend to it, and women throughout the past hundreds of years have faced sexism and discrimination in almost every way possible while trying to participate on the rock. Despite this unfortunate truth, many women hav…

1
BONUS: The French vs. The British | A Battle of Route Names 30:13

10M ago30:13

30:13

Starting in the 80s, and extending well into the 90s, it seemed to be the French vs. The British for sport climbing supremacy. At the middle of this war of words and routes were Ben Moon and Jibe Tribout, and the greatest battles would play out at Buoux and Raven Tor, two of the most legendary crags of the era. Check out more here! Join the Secret …

1
Alan Watts on Jibe Tribout, Just Do It and Climbing at Smith in the 90s 51:00

10M ago51:00

51:00

Alan Watts might have bolted the best routes of the 1980’s and 90s. Chain Reaction, To Bolt or Not To Be, Just Do It. He didn’t have a front row seat to the action - he was on the stage alongside Tribout and every other superstar who came to Smith Rock to try his routes. In this episode, Alan and Kris discuss Jibe Tribout and whether he was the vil…

1
Adam Ondra on Just Do It and the Importance of Climbing History 42:27

10M ago42:27

42:27

In November of 2018, at Smith Rock, Oregon, Adam Ondra made one of the most impressive onsights in the history of climbing. The first 14c in the US, Just Do It. 1990’s era technical testpieces don’t make for easy redpoints, more or less onsights, but Adam has made a point of trying to do just that as often as possible. And there’s no climber in the…

1
Jibe Tribout Just Does It 30:13

11M ago30:13

30:13

Brash and bold, Jibe Tribout had a futuristic vision, and he was willing to Just Do It. Even if that meant flying around the world to try a route he’d been asked to stay off of. He wasn’t the most talented of the French superstar climbers. That title belonged to Patrick Edlinger or one of the Le Menestrel brothers. But he worked the hardest. He put…

1
Bonus: Mike Call on Filming and Shaping 90’s Era Climbing 1:28:51

11M ago1:28:51

1:28:51

Merry Christmas! As a gift for listening and sharing the show, we’ve not only put together a massive list of climbing films from the 1990’s that you can watch right now for free, but we also decided to chat with Mike Call - one of the key figures in 1990’s hold shaping, innovation, and filmmaking. We hear about the shaping of The Boss and the early…

1
Dorothea Karalus on Fred Nicole and Climbing La Danse des Balrogs 37:12

11M ago37:12

37:12

Dorothea Karalus drove over 400 miles, repeatedly, over several years to repeat Fred Nicole’s classic V13 La Danse des Balrogs in Branson, Switzerland. Through the process, she discovered that happiness wasn’t sending - it was a separate thing - and maybe, just maybe, this is what allowed her passage on the boulder. In this episode, Kris asks Doro …

1
Bjorn Pohl on Fred Nicole and What Makes a Climbing Legend 41:03

11M ago41:03

41:03

Bjorn Pohl is a climbing journalist and podcaster who has covered climbing since the late 90’s, and has seen the impact of Fred Nicole on bouldering for the past 20 plus years. In this episode, Kris and Bjorn discuss Fred’s contributions, how he was also a top sport climber, the importance of hard repeats and Fred’s continued legacy. We also hear F…

1
Will Anglin on Fred Nicole and New Ways of Seeing Climbing 58:22

11M ago58:22

58:22

Will Anglin spends a lot of time thinking hard about hard bouldering. And good bouldering. And of course, doing as much of both as possible. As founder of Tension Climbing, Will has made sure his company - and his climbing - follows the philosophy “mastery over success”. Much like Fred Nicole, he measures his words and movements carefully, and has …

1
Fred Nicole Dances with the Demons 30:43

11M ago30:43

30:43

Fred Nicole was never simply an athlete. He was an artist. Coming into bouldering via a different direction than you might think, Fred Nicole did indeed create art. Really, really difficult art. First, La Danse des Balrogs, the worlds first V13. But that merely opened a door to new possibilities. Moving in his singular style, he sought out new chal…

1
The Bachar-Yerian 5.11R/X (Part 2) 20:15

12M ago20:15

20:15

The early 80's was a time of immense change in the climbing world. Sport climbing and bolting on rappel had just started to spread from Europe to America, and the ethics that had ruled the previous decades started to be questioned. John Bachar - arguably the greatest climber in the world at the time - hated the idea of these new ethics changing the…

1
BONUS: Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 9a (14d) featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin 56:56

12M ago56:56

56:56

Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other. One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode, we’re going to examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes - Alex Me…

1
Alex Megos on Wolfgang Gullich and Climbing Action Directe 43:56

12M ago43:56

43:56

There’s no climber more qualified to discuss Action Directe than Alex Megos. He has the fastest ascent, the most ascents, and he is, in our estimation, the person who is carrying the torch that Wolfgang Gullich left behind. In this episode, we discuss the visionary line of Action Directe, what makes it different and so present in our consciousness …

1
Ben Cossey on Wolfgang Gullich and What it Takes to Climb Action Directe 1:28:37

12M ago1:28:37

1:28:37

One of Australia’s best and most colorful climbers, Ben Cossey is, in his words, a Wolfgang Gullich froth dog. Action Directe is a life goal that he’s come close on, and plans to return to. In this episode, Kris and Ben discuss the legacy of Action Directe, speculate on what might have been if Wolfgang had lived, and get very deep and nerdy on the …

1
Wolfgang Gullich Takes Direct Action 25:45

12M ago25:45

25:45

13d, 14a, 14b. (8b to 8c) Wolfgang Gullich was the first to climb them all. Now, with Action Directe, he was set to raise standards once again. In the Waldkopf region of the Frankenjura, Wolfgang left us his most enduring legacy: a 16-18 move masterpiece through single and two-finger pockets and powerful moves out an impossibly steep limestone bulg…

1
Steve McClure on Ben Moon and Climbing Hubble 50:27

1y ago50:27

50:27

In 2000, Steve McClure completed a project Ben Moon had spent 120 days on and left unfinished, calling it Northern Lights and giving it 9a. The torch was passed. A few years later, he climbed a route that completed his journey - Hubble - saying that it might be more important to him than his own first ascents. One of which was Mutation, a candidate…

1
Buster Martin on Ben Moon and Hubble 51:55

1y ago51:55

51:55

Buster Martin burst onto the UK climbing scene as a 16-year-old by climbing Bat Route, a famous 14b at Malham. And even though he took a break from climbing, he didn’t fizzle out entirely like many prodigies tend to do. Instead, he came back with a vengeance by climbing BOTH Hubble and Action Directe, becoming only the 2nd person to clip chains on …

1
Ben Moon Launches Into Orbit 29:05

1y ago29:05

29:05

It’s hard to argue that any climber from the 90’s had a bigger impact than Ben Moon, and he did it from the launch of the decade. While he wasn’t looking for controversy, he also wasn’t afraid to make a statement. All punk rock and dreadlocks, he established the first two 14b’s in France, with names like missiles aimed directly at the French. He de…

1
Katie Brown on Climbing with Lynn Hill and Her Other-Worldliness 37:17

1y ago37:17

37:17

If Lynn Hill kicked in the door at the start of the 90s, then Katie Brown ripped it from it’s hinges as the decade came to a close. On April 11, 1999, Katie onsighted Omaha Beach in the Red River Gorge, becoming the first woman to onsight 13d. (The route was later upgraded to 14a after hold breakage). But even before this feat, Lynn Hill called Kat…

1
Lynn Hill Reaches Critical Mass 27:15

1y ago27:15

27:15

If the 1990’s had a door, then Lynn Hill, one of the first American climbers to embrace the new European climbing ethics, definitely kicked it in. At the start of the decade, no woman had climbed 5.14, and one particular French superstar had said that no woman WOULD EVER climb the grade. And so Lynn, channeling the energy from the men who had alway…

1
Written in Stone S1: The 1990s 5:21

1y ago5:21

5:21

The French vs. the British. Ethics wars. The hardest moves ever done on rock. A ghost in the forest and women showing the boys how it should be done. Host Kris Hampton tells the stories of rock climbing's most important ascents and characters from a decade that would prove pivotal in the development of the sport: the 1990s. The legends are all here…

1
The Bachar-Yerian 5.11R/X (Part 1) 27:18

1y ago27:18

27:18

The early 80's was a time of immense change in the climbing world. Sport climbing and bolting on rappel had just started to spread from Europe to America, and the ethics that had ruled the previous decades started to be questioned. John Bachar - arguably the greatest climber in the world at the time - hated the idea of these new ethics changing the…

1
1959 - The First Hard Dynamic Climbing Move 21:36

1+ y ago21:36

21:36

Today, dynamic climbing - lunging, dyno's, deadpoint's etc. - is considered a mainstream climbing style. But that hasn't always been the case. On today's episode we trace to the origin on dynamic climbing to an exact time, place, and even a specific route. From there we look at how this style of climbing spread from its early origins. SOURCES Ament…

1
What happened in Buoux in the 80's? The Rise and Fall of a Mega-Crag. 22:48

1+ y ago22:48

22:48

In the 1980’s the small town of Buoux in Southern France suddenly became the centre of the hard sport climbing universe. Climbing on bolts was still in its infancy, and Buoux saw grades explode, new moves like the “Figure 4” invented, and controversies brew. Everyone in the climbing world wanted to go to Buoux to try the hardest routes in the world…

1
Coming soon! + How the Sit-Start...started. 7:08

1+ y ago7:08

7:08

Coming soon - The Brief History of Climb Podcast! Plus, a short story about the origin of the sit-start. Music by Slip.stream - "Gnarly Man" / "Back In your Town"James Howell による

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