TFM7: Simulated Altitude Training For Mountaineers

The Training For Mountaineering Podcast

In this episode, I discuss simulated altitude training for a mountaineer. I explore what it is, what its potential benefits are and clear up a lot of the confusion and misinformation, which is often spread about this method of training. Simulated altitude training in an incredibly contentious issue in the mountaineering community; some people swear by it, some people are adamant it is a waste of time. But no matter how you view it, there can be no argument it is getting more and more popular and prevalent in the mountaineering world. So today, I explore this subject in a bit of detail. I talk you through what it is, what the science behind altitude training says for mountaineers and how best to apply this in your preparation (if you decide to). So by the end of this episode, you will have the information you need, to make an informed decision if considering it in your preparations. You will learn:

• My mistakes with simulated altitude training (and why you cannot believe everything you are told about this method of training)
• The three different types of altitude training (and why you CANNOT consider all of them the same)
• How most altitude chambers work (and how they go about 'simulating' a hypoxic environment)
• Is there any evidence to support using simulated altitude training to protect against altitude sickness?
• The effectiveness of simulated altitude training for improving endurance, power and strength
• Is sleeping in a tent or training in a chamber better?
• The essential guidelines a mountaineer has to follow if sleeping in an altitude tent (plus several other factors they have to weigh up when considering this)
• My personal opinion on simulated altitude training for mountaineers (and when I recommend considering it in your preparations)

Studies referenced in this episode: Intermittent altitude exposures reduce acute mountain sickness at 4300 m (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14561214) Sleeping in moderate hypoxia at home for prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS): a placebo-controlled, randomized double-blind study (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24931591) Effect of acute exposure to moderate altitude on muscle power: hypobaric hypoxia vs. normobaric hypoxia. ( https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2547410) Effectiveness of preacclimatization strategies for high-altitude exposure. (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22653279) Comparison of the effect of intermittent hypoxic training vs. the live high, train low strategy on aerobic capacity and sports performance in cyclists in normoxia. (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30237660) The effects of intermittent hypoxic training on aerobic capacity and endurance performance in cyclists. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24149312 Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1483780 === Want to get fit, strong and resilient for your mountaineering adventures? Check out the Online Summit Program: https://www.summitstrength.com.au/online-mountaineer.html