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Episode 26: Ed Nepia, Chairman Of The Revolution
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Welcome to Episode 26 of the Ω Powerband Podcast - a podcast dedicated to rock climbing in Aotearoa New Zealand.
In this episode, I speak with 'crazy' skier, climber, family man and natural born leader, Ed Nepia.
Ed hails from the East Coast (Ngāti Porou) and comes from impeccable sporting stock (Google: George Nepia). As a teenager, he moved with his family to Christchurch where a close encounter in the local library with a book containing photos of Gaston Rébuffat looking effortlessly cool on the granite aiguilles of the French Alps lit a fire for climbing that still burns hot several decades later.
In the mid 1990s, Ed moved to Wanaka "for the skiing" and found acres of accessible unclimbed rock and a fledgling club of enthusiastic route developers. 25 years on, the sport climbing resource in Wanaka is second to none in Aotearoa and Ed played no small part in that.
In our conversation, Ed reflects on the changes in Wanaka climbing (and in Wanaka itself) over his time there. We discuss some of the characters in the scene and a few of his more notable new routes, such as the mighty Taniwha at Hell's Gate. We talk about his time at the helm of New Zealand's oldest dedicated rock climbing organisation: the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club and the role that it has played in enabling the development of sport climbing areas in Wanaka and in managing access for climbers. Ed shares his perspective on Maori in New Zealand climbing, including why he believes Maori are under-represented in the demographic of our sport. And we chat about skiing and family and Fiordland and few other things besides.
Enjoy!
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