Improve Your Power Endurance Part 2: Projecting and Redpointing


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Tom Randall returns in another 'solo podcast' for part 2 of the Power Endurance series. In this episode, he dives into the aspects of performance and preparation that have the greatest effects on the projecting and redpointing process. We can't really overstate how important these factors are and how much the use of them is the crowning glory on top of all the hard training you've done over the years. Get these sorted and you'll be ticking harder and faster, more consistently!
Like Part 1 (specificity of technical, physical and psychological factors), this one breaks into three parts:


  • Dialling the crux
  • Dealing with the redpoint crux
  • Clips and quickdraws
  • Time of day and crag conditions
  • Top down tactics


  • Training and projecting at the same time
  • Pace training
  • Gaining training volume on rests
  • Warm up tricks and tips


  • Visualisation away from the crag
  • Controlling allostatic load
  • Your 'perfect day' list
  • Expectations setting
  • Remaining process focused.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

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