Common Mistakes For Endurance Training: Part 1 With Tom Randall


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Endurance training is a foundational element of performance preparation or training for almost every athlete, no matter what their discipline. Boulderers, sport climbers and trad climbers should all be completing phases of endurance training during their year. What is also common across these disciplines, is a consistent set of mistakes that climbers typically make when completing this type of training.
In part one of this podcast, Tom Randall talks about the "Intensity" aspect of endurance work and how high, moderate and low intensity work affects the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation.
Low intensity endurance examples: Continuity or ARC training
Moderate intensity endurance examples: 50:50s or Polarised Continuity
High intensity endurance examples: 1 On 1 Off or 2 On 1 Off
Technical outcomes:
1. Speed and pace of climbing.
2. Playing to your personal technical strengths, not working weaknesses
Psychological outcomes:
1. Good at trying when fresh, but not when fatigued
2. Low or high 'suffering' thresholds
3. Time spent working on 'flow' and 'highly efficient and relaxed' climbing
1. Neurological e.g. de-recruitment training stimulus
2. Structural e.g. hypertrophy or vascularisation
3. Metabolic e.g. muscle enzyme activity

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