Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip.

I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt to improve your boulder or route projecting.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast!

6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send.

13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project.

15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business...

16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start.

22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation.

32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds.

34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears...

37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux.

41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run.

44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?)

50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas.

57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules?

1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst.

1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

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